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Goran Sekulović: Stare građevine i urbana baština u podgoričkoj Mirkovoj varoši

Posljednji mohikanci prošlosti

(15 riječi)

Svaka od ovih kuća sa dušom ima svoju sudbinu, svaka priča svoju priču, poput ljudi koji su u njima stanovali, rađali se, živjeli, umirali…

 ,, …Mene privlače ruševine (i uspomene). Kad je nešto porušeno, tada zadobija milost da bude opisano u priči. Zadobija milost u mojim očima." (Danilo Kiš: ‘Beleške 1983’ iz knjige ,,Skladište")

Stare građevine u Podgorici lociraju se isključivo u dijelovima grada poznatim kao Stara Varoš i Mirkova ili Nova Varoš. Samo nekoliko ih je sačuvano starijih, građanskih, prepoznatljivih i po arhitekturi, i po stilu, i po značenju građenja i onoga što se u njima dešavalo, ko je u njima živio, od kada do kada, i šta su ti ljudi značili u svom dobu i za nas današnje i buduće. To su objekti nastali kako za vrijeme dugotrajnog tzv. turskog perioda tako i poslije oslobođenja Podgorice od Turaka 1878. godine, precizno – od 1886. godine kada je na Mitrovdan otvorena Nova Varoš, tada novi dio Podgorice na desnoj obali Ribnice koji je dobio ime po ocu knjaza Nikole Velikom Vojvodi Mirku, pa tokom daljeg postojanja knjaževine i kraljevine Crne Gore, osobito sa početka dvadesetog vijeka i kasnije sve do početka Drugog svjetskog rata. No, većina njih je i u Staroj i u Mirkovoj, Novoj Varoši razorena tokom okupatorskih i savezničkih bombardovanja u Drugom svjetskom ratu – a neke srušene i nedavno kao zgrada nekadašnjeg predratnog Sokolskog gimnastičkog društva u kojoj je više decenija nakon Drugog svjetskog rata bila sala prvog nakon oslobođenja i kultnog podgoričkog bioskopa ‘’Kultura’’ – tako da su danas uglavnom, uz neke raritetne iznimke, preostale građevine iz perioda između dva svjetska rata (izuzimajući kuću Čubranovića i još nekoliko objekata u staroj Varoši), na prostoru nekadašnje Mirkove, a sada uglavnom prepoznatljive i imenovane kao Nove varoši, ali, evo, uskoro sa autorskom obnovom čuvenog umjetnika Dimitrija Popovića inoviranog spomenika velikom vojvodi Mirku Petroviću Njegošu slijedi i vraćanje ovog dijela Podgorice njenim građanima pod starim, izvornim imenom i sa prepoznatljivom dušom i identitetskom simbolikom.

Ovaj dio grada je zapravo jedini pravi, moderni urbani prostor i topos Podgorice sve tamo do vremena poslije Drugog svjetskog rata, kada se grad širi i na prostor desne obale Morače, ili kako se to uobičavalo i uobičava reći – preko Morače. Ili što bi rekao jedan grafit: ,,Preko Morače sve je drugojače". U odnosu na Staru varoš – ostavštinu gradskog jezgra iz perioda prvih naseobina ljudskih na ovom tlu i posebno turskih osvajanja i držanja pod vlašću Podgorice – koja je građena prema standardima, običajima, prilikama i navikama vremena u kojima je nastajala, Mirkova, Nova varoš je sasvim modernog duha, pravih, dugih, pravilnih, ulica, koje se sijeku pod pravim uglom i na raskrsnicama, sa planiranim ukupnim mobilijarom onog vremena, tj. doba kada je nastala u glavi i u skicama Josipa Sladea, arhitekte iz Dalmacije kome je knjaz Nikola povjerio izgradnju novog, evropskog lica i lika stare, nekadašnje turske podgoričke kasabe.

Nazivi ulica Nove varoši se uglavnom nijesu mijenjale sve do najnovijeg doba, do početka trećeg milenijuma i dvadesetiprvog vijeka što je pravo čudo, s obzirom na ideološko vrijeme raznih provenijencija i hegemonijskih diskursa (uostalom, dvadeseti vijek je vijek ideologija i totalitarnih političkih pokreta širom Planete), koje je u međuvremenu zdušno, bez ostatka, apsolutno i totalno pohodilo naše prostore. Ulice Njegoševa, Marka Miljanova, Miljana Vukova, Novaka Miloševa, Balšićeva, Hercegovačka, Vučedolska, Bokeška, Vuka Karadžića, Karađorđeva, Slobode – eto okvira novog grada iz vremena knjaza i kralja Nikole, okvira koji se nije bitno mijenjao ni u vremenu Karađorđevićeve ni u vremenu Titove Jugoslavije.

Toliko su ova imena i ovi znakoviti simboli, istorijski toposi i ljudi bili svoji na svome i toliko lično jaki, dični i veliki u svojim realnim životima i simbolično važni u životima i kolektivnim śećanjima svojih sunarodnika-potomaka i budućih generacija da su jednostavno morali ostati ispoštovani kao najbolji i najveličanstveniji, bez obzira što su kasnija pokoljenja iz razloga nadolaska ideološkog duha novijih vremena na različite načine i tih tek nekoliko preostalih starih, građanskih, međuratnih građevina u Podgorici danas su razmještene tu i tamo, poput usamljenih ostrva, kao posljednji mohikanci nekadašnjih ljudskih vizija, arhitektonskih zamisli, graditeljskih umijeća, vještih majstora i domaćih materijala, sve više u śenci prijetećih i sve brže nadolazećih džinova-višespratnica, modernih objekata u staklu, gvožđu, mermeru i novim, vještačkim materijalima, za laike, neupućene i nepripremljene, gotovo neprepoznatljivih vrijednosti i osobenosti.

Jedna građevina je u Marka Miljanova, druga u Miljana Vukova, treća u Balšićevoj, četvrta u Njegoševoj, peta u Hercegovačkoj, šesta u Bokeškoj, sedma opet u Hercegovačkoj. I svaka ima svoju sudbinu, svaka priča svoju priču, poput ljudi koji su u njima stanovali, rađali se, živjeli, umirali. Na njima poneki, doduše rijetki, ali upravo zato još i vrijedniji, ukrasni detalj, glava Crnogorca i Crnogorke, muška i ženska glava modelovane po uzorima iz antičkih vremena, godina izgradnje, ornamentika, krugovi, vijenci, linije, sve u kamenoj plastici. Ako (i) to nekim ,,čudom" nestane (a da se ,,čuda" dešavaju pokazao je i primjer zgrade Sokolskog društva-doma, tj. bioskopa" Kultura!), ostaju fotografije (čak su sačuvane i one iz vremena izgradnje Sokolskog doma). I ruševine i uspomene. Dovoljno za priču.



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